Cashmere is a type of ultra-soft fiber obtained from the fine undercoat of cashmere goats, renowned for its unparalleled softness and warmth. This luxurious fiber is hand-combed from goats in high-altitude regions (such as Mongolia and Inner Mongolia) each spring, yielding only about 150–200 grams of usable fiber per goat per year. The combination of scarce supply, meticulous harvesting, and exceptional qualities is what makes cashmere so prized. It offers incredible warmth without weight – a cashmere sweater or scarf can be featherlight yet insulating, thanks to the fineness of the fibers. Its touch is sumptuously soft, far gentler than ordinary sheep’s wool, and it has a natural luster that speaks of quiet luxury and heritage craftsmanship.

Cashmere’s allure spans both fashion and home decor. From airy featherweight scarves and versatile cashmere wraps to cozy throws and elegant ponchos, this fine fiber is woven into a myriad of timeless pieces. Each item showcases the signature traits of high-quality cashmere: an exquisitely soft handfeel, impressive warmth-to-weight ratio, and a drape that exudes refinement. In short, cashmere is synonymous with understated luxury – a result of both the fiber’s natural properties and the care taken in sourcing and crafting it.

Cashmere is traditionally harvested by hand-combing goats, a gentle process that removes the soft undercoat without harming the animal. Ethical herders carefully collect the downy fibers once the goats naturally shed them in spring, preserving the longest and finest hairs for top quality.

Understanding Cashmere Grades (A, B, C)

Not all cashmere is created equal. The quality of cashmere varies depending on the fineness and length of the fibers – and this is where the grading system comes in. Cashmere is generally classified into three grades: Grade A, Grade B, and Grade C. Grade A is the highest quality (and most expensive), comprising the thinnest, longest, and purest fibers. Lower grades use thicker and/or shorter fibers, affecting the feel, durability, and value of the final product. Below is a breakdown of the three main grades of cashmere and how they differ:

Under a close lens, top-grade cashmere fibers appear extremely slender and uniform. Grade A cashmere can be as fine as around 14 microns in diameter – about one-sixth the width of a human hair – and over 35–36mm in length. These superfine, long fibers create an ultra-soft, smooth yarn that gives Grade A garments their famous lightweight warmth and buttery feel. In contrast, lower-grade fibers are thicker and shorter, which makes the cashmere fiber less soft and more prone to pilling.

• Grade A: The finest quality cashmere, with fibers roughly ~14–15 microns thin and around 34–36mm long. Only the pure, softest undercoat hairs are used (virtually no coarse guard hairs), resulting in an exquisitely soft and light feel. Grade A cashmere has excellent durability for such a fine fiber – its long, strong hairs mean garments hold their shape well and resist pilling better. This grade commands the highest price due to its rarity and supreme comfort.
• Grade B: High-quality cashmere, but slightly thicker at around ~18–19 microns in fiber diameter (shorter fibers than Grade A). It is still very soft and luxurious, but you may notice a bit more weight or substance to the touch compared to Grade A. Grade B cashmere provides lovely warmth and softness, though not quite as cloud-like as Grade A. It remains a durable, good-grade fiber, but will be a bit less long-lasting and less expensive than Grade A.
• Grade C: The lowest grade of cashmere, with fibers up to ~25–30 microns thick. These fibers are much coarser and often shorter. Cashmere of this grade feels noticeably less soft – it can have a slight prickle or roughness, more akin to ordinary wool. Grade C is also more prone to pilling and stretching out since the hairs are shorter and weaker. On the plus side, it is the most affordable type of cashmere, used in many mass-market or budget cashmere products. However, it lacks the indulgent touch and longevity of higher grades.

In practical terms, the difference between a Grade A cashmere garment and a Grade C one is immediately apparent. A Grade A cashmere sweater will feel featherlight and silky against your skin, whereas a Grade C sweater might feel heavier, duller, or a touch scratchy. Over time, a Grade A piece (if well cared for) tends to maintain its smooth look and shape with minimal pilling, becoming a long-term investment in your wardrobe. Grade B offers a middle ground – generally soft and of good quality, though it may develop slight pilling or wear after years of use. Grade C items often show signs of wear sooner (such as fuzzing or losing shape) and may not provide the same level of cozy softness. These distinctions in feel, durability, and price are why understanding cashmere grades is so important when evaluating a cashmere product.

How to Identify High-Quality Cashmere

When shopping for cashmere, you won’t always see the grade labeled – but a discerning eye (and touch) can reveal a lot about the quality. High-quality cashmere (typically Grade A or fine Grade B) has certain telltale signs that set it apart from lower quality versions. Here are some tips to help you identify the best quality cashmere:

One quick test of cashmere quality is how it feels and bounces back. Fine cashmere should feel cloud-soft and spring back to shape when gently stretched, indicating long, resilient fibers.

• Read the Label: Check the garment’s label for fiber content. The best cashmere pieces will be labeled 100% cashmere. If you see a blend (e.g., “cashmere blend” or percentages of wool, nylon, etc.), know that it’s not pure high-grade cashmere. Also be wary of vague terms like “cashmere feel” – by law, only actual cashmere fiber can be labeled as cashmere. A pure cashmere item will proudly state it on the tag.
• Touch and Feel: The touch test is key. Gently run the fabric against your skin (try the underside of your forearm or neck). High-quality cashmere should feel ultra-soft, smooth, and never itchy or rough. If the sweater or scarf has a slight scratchiness or hardness to it, the fibers are likely thicker (lower grade) or mixed with something else. Top-grade cashmere almost feels like it melts in your hands with a plush, lofty texture. Weight can be a clue too: quality cashmere provides warmth without heavy bulk, so a good piece often feels light for its size yet still substantial in drape.
• Stretch & Recovery: Take a small section of the knit and give it a gentle stretch. Then let go and see if the cashmere springs back to its original shape. High-quality cashmere has a natural elasticity and resilience – thanks to those long fibers – and a well-made garment will recover its shape easily. If the material stays stretched out or sags, that’s a sign of lower quality (shorter, weaker fibers or looser, cheap knitting). Similarly, you shouldn’t be able to see through a quality cashmere knit easily. Many premium cashmere sweaters are made with at least a 2-ply yarn and a tight gauge, so the fabric stays opaque and holds up to wear.
• Pilling Test: All cashmere can pill a bit over time, especially in high-friction areas, but the rate and extent of pilling is a good quality indicator. Before buying, examine the surface. If you notice it already looking fuzzy or little pills forming in the store, that’s a red flag – it could mean shorter fibers (Grade C or low quality) that will pill readily. You can also lightly rub the fabric between your fingers; high-quality cashmere made from long fibers tends to pill much less in the long run (and any small initial pills can be gently removed with a cashmere comb). Lower quality cashmere, with its shorter fibers, will mat and pill quickly, making the garment look worn-out sooner.
• Inspect Craftsmanship: The construction of the item can hint at quality. Look at the knit or weave: is it even and tight? High-quality cashmere often has a dense, uniform knit that gives it a refined appearance and helps the item keep its shape. Check the seams as well – they should lie flat and be neatly finished. If you hold a sweater up to the light and it’s extremely thin or transparent (unless it’s meant to be a delicate gauzy piece), it could be an indication of cost-cutting – either using fewer cashmere fibers or a very low ply. While a thinner cashmere garment can still be high grade, generally a bit of heft and structure, without uneven stretching or distortion, suggests better quality.

Sustainability and Ethical Sourcing

Interestingly, the highest quality cashmere often goes hand-in-hand with sustainable and ethical sourcing practices. Why? Because producing Grade A cashmere requires patience, care, and respect for the goats and the environment. Herders who prioritize animal welfare – for example, gently combing goats by hand rather than hurried mass-shearing – tend to obtain the longest, finest fibers from healthy, stress-free animals. These are the very fibers that become Grade A cashmere. In contrast, cashmere obtained through less humane or unsustainable methods (over-combing or poor herd management) can result in weaker, more brittle fibers and a lower overall quality (aside from the ethical concerns).

Responsible cashmere production focuses on quality over quantity. Traditional herding communities in regions like Mongolia often practice sustainable grazing, ensuring the goats’ pastureland is not overburdened. This environmental stewardship helps maintain the goats’ habitat and fiber quality year after year. Likewise, ethical sourcing usually means paying fair value to herders for the premium fleece, which encourages the continued production of top-grade cashmere and supports rural livelihoods. For consumers, choosing cashmere from reputable, ethical sources often means you’re getting a superior product – one that will last for decades – while also supporting animal welfare and sustainable practices. In essence, investing in high-grade, ethically sourced cashmere aligns luxury with responsibility: you enjoy an exquisite, long-lasting garment and contribute to a cycle that values care and quality at every step.